Judges, administrators, lawyers and other locals have been crowding into this cozy brick house for more than 30 years, and with good reason. Most of the homey, Old Vegas Italian dishes on this menu are delicious: a thick and hearty pasta e fagioli soup, a toothsome stuffed artichoke, a veal with peppers, and a mushroom and onion concoction good enough to make a grandmother weep.
Wines are served in retro glass tumblers, service is informal and engaging, and tables are set close together in two small dining rooms separated by an even smaller bar. Everyone is chatty; this is the sort of place where you end up making friends, even sharing a dish or two with someone at an adjacent table.
You will be greeted with a basket of hot Italian bread and a complimentary soup or salad, included in the pasta or entrée price. Just a few of the pasta choices include red and white clam sauce, terrific homemade meatballs, eggplant sauce and fettuccine Alfredo. There's even the occasional red sauce on lobster.
The house specialty -- Chicken Angelo -- is chicken sautéed with artichokes, butter and plenty of fresh mushrooms. The seafood stew cioppino is especially good, and for dessert, try the estimable tiramisu, if you have any room. Portions are huge, but the prices are very reasonable.