Peer through the display windows at Gallagher's Steakhouse at New York-New York to see the racks of prime beef aging. All of the beef is air aged for 21 days. In the truest tradition of the genre, Gallagher's specialty is hearty, well-prepared and honest food, including the crunchiest hash browns in my taste memory bank. This carnivore's Utopia serves thick, succulent steaks and chops, fish and seafood and more.
Such comforting side dishes as Yukon Gold mashed potatoes are better than mom's; the humongous baked potatoes, homemade chips and creamed spinach are super. And Gallagher's serves some delectable homespun desserts, big enough to share.
This Broadway favorite restaurant has quite a history. The Manhattan Gallagher's opened as a speakeasy in 1927 and was named for half of the famous vaudeville comedy team, Gallagher and Shean. The walls are lined with priceless photos of Broadway stars of the time and such old-time sports figures as Babe Ruth. Gallagher's opened the year the Babe hit 60 home runs. Photos of contemporary celebrities compete for wall space. The same decor and special beef aging room have been replicated at the New York-New York location.
The mesquite-grilled steaks and seafood specialities are first-rate. For starters, have the New England clam chowder or clams casino or Maryland crab cakes or a classic Caesars salad. I can never decide which one to have. Ditto with the side dishes: beer battered onion rings, Lyonnaise potatoes, jumbo asparagus covered with velvety Hollandaise ... all so tempting.
It's easy to fall in love with the dry aged bone-in New York sirloin, but one of these days I'm going to order the porterhouse and not share it! And dare I even think about the king cut of prime rib. I'll leave that succulent slab to the lean cowpokes who stay fit and firm so they can rope all those dogies.
Gallagher's is a singular steakhouse designed to please cowboys and tenderfoots. A few choruses of "Home on the Range," please, Mr. Fiddler.