Penazzi

Wine and food are bonded in a staunch marriage on the table, but America's dining family has gone dysfunctional. When did we trade a heartfelt talk and a fantastic four courses for dried-out chicken in a Styrofoam to-go box? A bottle and a feast, laughter and conversation, and perhaps then another bottle– that's what a dinner should be.

Gabriele Penazzi is here as our new family restaurant therapist, rekindling our love for a fantastic meal, and yes, the solution has everything to do with mother.

"Great food, great wine, great fun," an excited Penazzi laughed through his thick but irresistibly charming Italian accent. "That is what this restaurant is, but not always in that order."

The arrival of Penazzi's namesake eatery at Harrah's brings in a leveling international experience, sure to uncover a supper void most of us didn't even know was there. Oh, help us, Penazzi, there just seems to be no romance on our plates anymore.

"The food here will bring all of Italy as a unique experience in front of you. Not just the North, not just the South, it will be modern but with respect to traditional cuisine. Without respect for the past, there can be no creativity for the future."

He started his first paid culinary position almost three decades ago, but his training started long before that in his hometown of Imola in Northern Italy.

"My mother and father have had the greatest influence on my cooking. I am so fortunate to have grown up around people who have delighted in food. I owe so much to them; they have been the greatest influence on my cooking."

Almost 30 regular dishes are on the menu, signature plates bearing Penazzi's name or those of inspiring family members. Flaunting innovation, the Tortelloni Penazzi is a divine twist on a traditional recipe. Served tableside, the Rollatini di Sogliole alla Don gives a salute to motherland–the tomatoes and wilted spinach flanking the filet combine for the colors of the Italian flag.

OK, so we have some grounding in the food, but eating out seems cozier when we go and pick it up in our car. Is there a place to dine in Vegas that actually feels comfortable?

"Entering my restaurant is like entering my house, my living room. Each one of our staff will treat you like a friend, like family. You will feel at home here."

It's true. No doors are visible, the kitchen is open, the room is airy with natural light from ceiling windows and the décor radiates the warmth of a cozy household. Penazzi is refined but not pretentious. Like your own dinner table, you would feel just as comfortable in jeans as you would a tie, depending on the occasion.

We are on the verge of a breakthrough, but something isn't clicking. We just can't communicate. Is it possible to have a television at the table so we don't have to talk? No!

"This is the place to have an Italian experience. You will not be afraid to enjoy yourself. A good meal is just as much about the people as the food. Eat, talk and enjoy the wine."

There it is, here come the tears. The wine, of course. With more than 100 varieties representing the major areas of Italy, the vino glues the relationship together. As a sommelier, Penazzi knows how to pick a good blend. He even brings his own signature bottles: a sparkling, a red and a white.

"Food is wine. Like a tomato sauce but not as thick. It should be enjoyed like that."

The genuine, friendly vibe is something that could otherwise only be enjoyed in the big boot itself. Dining at Penazzi's is a recharging, benevolent event. It is what a meal should be.

Thank you, Penazzi, you've saved the marriage, and our stomachs.

-- Review by Justin Jimenez