Open daily, 5 p.m. - 11 p.m.
There is no shortage of steak houses in Las Vegas, so why I am about to wax poetic about Vic & Anthony's Steakhouse at the Golden Nugget? Because Vic & Anthony's Executive Chef Carlos Rodriguez piqued my taste buds.
Vic & Anthony's carte is an interesting mélange of appetizers, salads, entrées and desserts. Presentation is down-to-earth, yet beautiful. My dining companion and I decided we would order a mix of familiar dishes and new ones. Tastings always test a diner's willpower. We were willing to meet the challenge.
For starters, we shared a classic Caprese salad. Thick slices of ripe, red beefsteak tomatoes hugged thick slices of house-made mozzarella. Fresh basil, olive oil, a pinch of salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Simply delicious. I loved the pear and Saga bleu cheese salad dressed with a mix of the house vinaigrette and ranch dressing. A small conceit that was wonderful. Candied pecans and tiny tear drop tomatoes added additional crunch and flavor.
A jumbo lump crab cake was baked, not fried. Large chunks of crab meat baked quickly in a hot oven was enhanced with a swirl of light chive beurre blanc. My choice, maple-glazed quail mounded over lightly dressed greens released a peppery bite after the sweetness abated. The contrast of the tiny crispy birds and the sweet and zesty sauce was captivating.
Lobster bisque is a house speciality. The savory bisque is filled with bite-sized pieces of lobster meat. The soup du jour, fresh asparagus, was another tour de force for Chef Carlos.
All Vic & Anthony's steaks are prime Midwest grain-fed beef. Seafood choices include a superb Sake-glazed tuna as big as the prime New York strip steak. Veal chop Milanese a la Vic and Anthony's is humongous -- a tender, breaded chop pounded until it is the size of the plate. An awesome sight with flavor to match.
We loved the side dishes: a casserole of au gratin potatoes, creamy and rich with a golden brown crust; Lyonnaise potatoes like no other--slices of raw russet potatoes are deep fried, then smothered with sweet caramelized onions; and super creamed spinach. More orgy than meal, we savored every bite.
Desserts are scrumptious. We shared the thin, caramel-topped crème brûlée served in a flat dish. A layer of caramel and a thin layer of cream. Perfection. Perfect, too, was the pastry chef's divine chocolate creation that was at once fudgy, mousse-like and cake-like. Of course, there's more. Wine manager Shelby Clark has put together a fine wine list that includes half bottles as well as wines by the glass.
-- Review by Muriel Stevens