Joël Robuchon

The exquisite Joël Robuchon at MGM Grand is a nonpareil dining experience. This represents the master chef's first fine dining restaurant in the United States.

Robuchon is a remarkable, thoughtful man. During an interview with the affable Michelin three-star chef, we talked about his return to the fine cuisine he retired from more than three decades ago. This self-taught chef became the first and the youngest restaurateur to earn three Michelin stars in consecutive years. So formidable was the young chef's cuisine, it earned him the title Chef of the Century.

Would Joël Robuchon be reminiscent of his acclaimed Jamin restaurant in Paris? Maestro Robuchon hastened to assure me that Joël Robuchon was a new concept, unlike any he had created in the past. This concept brings into play the chef's extraordinary talents.

Restaurant Robuchon was designed by a Frenchman, Pierre-Yves Rochon, who is known for his sublime décor. Among his credits are the Four Seasons George V in Paris and the St. James Hotel in London. For Joël Robuchon, he designed a glorious setting. Time stops when diners walk through the elegant doors. It is akin to being transported to the glamour and allure of Paris in the '30s.

Robuchon's imprimatur is on everything from the table appointments to the china, crystal and silver. Various shades of purple and lilac are swirled through the hand-blown water glasses. The shape of the glass nestles in the hand like a perfect lover. In the vase on each table are purple calla lilies that are ideally paired with the décor. A superb crystal chandelier, central to the dining room, mesmerizes with its beauty. In such a setting, all is right with the world.

Two seasonal degustations are featured at Joël Robuchon. Robuchon is, without question, one of the most expensive restaurants in Las Vegas. Every meal is an unforgettable experience; one that would honor any special event. Of course, any dinner at Robuchon is a special event. One unforgettable dinner at Joël Robuchon (menus change daily) included nine courses plus an amuse-bouche-one small perfect, plump oyster presented as if it were a perfect jewel (it was). A fresh tomato mille-feuille was layered with king crab and crème fraîche. The rich red color of the diamond-shaped tomato and mille-feuille assembly of layers was perfection.

This lovely presentation is more complex than it appears to be. A whole tomato is steamed, peeled, seeded, flattened and chilled. It is cut into a diamond shape and layered with the crab and crème fraîche. The trimmings are used to make the coulis that surrounds the mille-feuille. It is so delightful, it has become a signature starter.

A tiny cup of delicate cream of lettuce soup was enhanced with a sweet-onion custard. So simple, so tasty, so marvelous. One tender, herbed scallop was cooked in its natural shell and drizzled with a lemon and seaweed butter. I nibbled the lush morsel, exalting over its flavor. Could it get any better than this? Yes.

Pan-fried seabass with a lemongrass foam and stewed baby leeks was superb. Robuchon's foams do not flow. They hold their shape, and the flavor is pure. A small rosy slice of veal tenderloin in a natural au jus was so flavorful, I couldn't resist gently sopping up the jus with a crust of homemade bread.

Bread is one of Robuchon's specialities. This absolute perfectionist was willing to try American flour, but it fell short of his expectations. All of the bread flour is shipped by container from France. A variety of mini breads and rolls are baked each day. A handsome bread trolley, overflowing with selections, is brought to the table. I love the mini-baguettes, the pain d'epice, and the vegetable- and fruit-studded rolls. Fresh and warm from the ovens, they're irresistible.

French cheeses or desserts are offered after dinner. I opted for the sublime cheese plate. A dessert trolley is part of the Robuchon dining adventure. (And what an adventure it is.) All of the desserts, including the fresh marshmallows, are made in the pastry kitchen. The tiered trolley tempts as it turns. From mousse to mangos and fresh fruit tarts, cookies, pralines and pastries, the sweetest sweet tooth will rejoice.

An impeccable staff never intrudes, yet is always nearby when needed.

This, mon ami, is only the tip of the truffle. Joël Robuchon at the Mansion is a marvel of food and wine.

A quote from MGM Grand President and Chief Operating Officer Gamal Aziz says it all: "Joël Robuchon represents the best in the world of culinary arts. It is fitting that he became a member of our family at a time when Las Vegas, with MGM Grand leading the way, has truly become a world-class dining destination."

Bienvenue, Monsieur Robuchon.

--Review by Muriel Stevens

Joël Robuchon was named Best Chef in Las Vegas Life magazine's 2007 Epicurean Awards.

Joël Robuchon was named Best French restaurant in Las Vegas Life magazine's 2007 Epicurean Awards.