Canter's Deli

A local spin-off of the famous industry hangout on Los Angeles' storied Fairfax Avenue -- for decades the epicenter of Jewish life in that city -- is already opening eyes thanks to the outré design. The futuristic plastic shapes, stainless-steel tables and chairs look as if they were lifted from Business Elite on Delta Airlines.

Food is much more traditional, many things literally taken from owner Gary Canter's family recipes. There is, for instance, a softball-sized potato knish served with brown gravy that is sure to make your cardiologist wake up in a cold sweat, as well as fabulous riffs on pastrami and tender corned-beef sandwiches, a number of egg dishes and Hebrew National hot dogs, all served on thick, toasted or steamed slices of chewy deli rye. The Mylanta costs extra.