Steakhouse46

Steakhouse46--named after the inaugural year of the Flamingo hotel and casino--has two amazing things going for it: Two Frenchmen in the kitchen.

Christophe Doumergue serves as assistant executive chef, where he oversees day-to-day operations. And Olivier Carlos holds the toque of executive pastry chef. Both men, with their strong French accents, merely grin when it's mentioned how unusual to find accomplished French chefs in a steakhouse in Las Vegas.

For Doumergue, the journey seems logical. After studying in France with Daniel Boulud and years working in Toulouse and Paris, he next found himself at the five-star Broadmoor Hotel in Colorado Springs, Colo.--where he became an avid Denver Broncos fan. From there, it's a mere hop, skip and a whisk to Vegas and voilà! He's cooking steaks at Flamingo. Never mistrust where life leads you.

Both chefs are also quick to include their effusive admiration for Don Marrandino, the newish general manager of the Flamingo. They describe how he's brought a new level of excitement and energy to a Grand Lady.

"People have been coming to this restaurant for 40 years," Doumergue said. "I need to respect that, but also try to add new things on the menu. Like the tuna sashimi and the free-range chicken."

The dining rooms at Steakhouse46 retain their classic look and feel, however, which adds to any diner's comfort level. The honey-colored woods are warm, while the rich brocades and mirrors add a level of luxury that you might not expect (especially since the kiosk outside the front door sells high-end, personalized bobble heads.)

Another incredible plus to this dining experience has to be the level of attention paid to service. Everyone knows that food and décor are important, but we all seem to tolerate under trained staff as though it's all one can expect. Under manager Don Gutierrez, this truly isn't so at Steakhouse46.

All those "little details" are thought of and incorporated: The bread selections are wonderful, as you'd expect from any French chef. The salad forks arrived chilled. The table gets de-crumbed as the entrees are removed. The staff are all affable.

A deceptively simple menu item such as the chopped salad, in the hands of a competent chef, becomes a burst of flavor with each forkful. Finely chopping--yet not mincing--the many ingredients (everything from sunflower seeds and roast corn, to gorgonzola cheese and egg whites) requires a deft hand and a judicious amount of time.

Fans of escargot will not be disappointed with the taste nor the ease of the classic dish as presented here. Taken out of the shells for you, these little mouthfuls of garlic wonderful can lead you only one place: grabbing for the bread basket to soak up the rest of the herb butter.

The steaks, mostly dry-aged for 28 days, include filets in both 8- and 12-ounce cuts, a New York strip and a generous Kobe rib eye (for a very reasonable $55). If you've never felt the urge or the desire to spend the money, this might be your opportunity. Kobe beef receive special hand massages and are fed grains that impart a rich, highly marbled texture that almost tastes like butter more than steak. It's a treat you should no longer deprive yourself of.

If not in the mood for beef, you can also choose from wild salmon, ahi tuna with foie gras and seafood linguine. It's a well-rounded menu that honors a venerable room while keeping an eye on the future.

Desserts by Monsieur Olivier include outrageous presentations such as caramelized banana with pralines and chocolate mousse and an old-fashioned apple pie with rich vanilla ice cream. Another plus is the wine list, with offerings from a reasonable $30 up to $275. These days, that's quite a deal.

Can you tell? Steakhouse46 gets the nod ... and not just because it's close to the bobble heads.

-- Review by Thom Wise